Finnociona and Chorizo Salami aging in the sausage cave
Finnociona Salami after fermentation and curing for 3 months…delicious!
Hello to the couple readers out there- It’s been quite a while since I posted. Mainly, it is because of some rather significant life changes. Over the past few months, I said goodbye to my old Sous Chef position at Cafe Flora, the restaurant I had been working at for 5 years, and embarked upon my new job opportunity, opening and running the kitchen as Executive Chef of the new Central District bar and restaurant, The Neighbor Lady.
It is every chef’s dream to be given creative domain to write a menu from scratch, purchase equipment, design a kitchen line, hire a crew, organize ordering lists and purveyors, sample products, test recipes. To start a brand new kitchen. It’s also a TON of work. It has been a delightful, exciting journey so far. I have been given such a wonderful gift to have my own professional kitchen. It has detracted some from my hobbies and endeavors of cheese making and charcuterie at home- though there will be much more to come.
We are currently working to improve our tiny apartment kitchen and have purchased an additional fridge to turn into a sausage cave. Cheese presses are made and we are able to consistently mold larger batches of cheese. And spring is finally here, which allows us more time outside to forage- nettles, fiddle head ferns, devil’s club shoots. And hopefully soon, Morel Mushrooms…
So for the few and far between that have been wondering where I’m at, there it is. Thanks for checking in!
For the month of October, the challenge for charcutepalooza was stretching. What’s stretching, you ask? This month, we were asked to stretch the amount of food we could make from an item, the length of time we could preserve it, and to stretch our imaginations as well. The task at hand: the Chicken Galantine. The dish which takes the whole bird, skin removed in a single piece, boned out and broken down. The breasts are seared, while the thigh and leg meat are combined with pork back fat, eggs and cream to make a forcemeat. The whole skin is frozen then layered with the forcemeat and the seared breasts, wrapped in cheesecloth, and poached. Whew! A lot of work goes into this roulade, and I have to say, it was worth it. A ton of fun to make, and delicious.
The Charcuterie book called for pate spice to season the Galantine. We decided to season our version of this classic with truffle salt, nutmeg, thyme, cayenne, salt and pepper. Then after sitting in the gelatinous stock overnight after poaching, we seared the galantine and served it atop creamy parsnip puree, and roasted baby purple potatoes. A hearty, flavorful autumn meal, with Pinot Noir, of course! Salud!
And, as an added bonus, we had far more forcemeat than the recipe called for. With that, and the flavorful stock from the bones, we made chicken soup flavored with blue kuri squash, collard greens, home made pancetta, and chicken meatballs from the forcemeat. Talk about stretching, we’ve been able to eat all week on one 4 pound chicken, in multiple variations. It feels great to see every scrap of the bird used, from start to finish and know that it was raised humanely from Draper Valley farms, and utilized from the bones to the meat and skin. Cheers to the Charcutepalooza crew for this challenge, it was a great one.
It has come and gone, and I have finished, sadly, right upon the back end of the deadline again. Time seems to be moving so quickly these days, it’s the 15th of the month again before I know it.
This month’s challenge was to make a Pate Gratinee en Croute. I ended up making a terrine of emulsified pork shoulder, back fat and pancetta, filled with a rich layer of sweet, salty duck leg confit. Baked, then wrapped in puff pastry and baked again until crispy, buttery, golden brown.
Sounds pretty fucking great right?
To be honest, I was a tad disappointed. I just wasn’t all that wowed with the flavor and texture of the pate. Something to work on, perfecting the emulsification. Truth be told, I think my heart just wasn’t in it this month. I have Mortadella frozen that we haven’t gotten around to eating all of from July, headcheese from last month, and now half a loaf of pate to add to our crowding freezer. I just can’t eat any more cold, gelatinous meat product, no matter the quality, care and time that went into it. I’d fail in France.
My dream is to one day have my own shop, with my own charcuterie, cheeses, foraged mushrooms, with Jake, my partner in business, and love. While I want pates and terrines, my focus is more on sausages, cured meats and salami. That, plus trying to get our cheese making apparati into working order, and now starting to forage for mushrooms into September has made me stretched a bit thin. So many things to accomplish, so many adventures and endeavors! I’m a lucky lady, if not a tired one.
I’ll have to add making the perfect pate to the list, but not for another few months. Enough with the cold meat paste, this gal needs some salame…
Headcheese. The tender meat from the pig’s head and trotters, slow braised and suspended in meat jelly. Sounds challenging, fun to make, and utterly, indulgently, delicious. The question is, where do we get the head? And the feet?
How about the whole hog.
At Jake’s suggestion, we decided to get a whole piggy, and drove to pick up our pig and butcher it in the kitchen at home. All 75 pounds of it. I had never broken down a whole pig before, and was really excited about the whole endeavor. Plus, in addition to the head and feet for the monthly Charcutepalooza challenge, we would be supplying ourselves with fresh cuts of pork, a plenty.
We started by breaking down the head and feet to get them braising for the headcheese. On the stove were stockpots for the Consomme that would eventually suspend the meat in the terrine.
We liked our pig, and took silly pictures with it. This is an event, afterall, butchering a whole pig in the comfort of our studio apartment! Pork portraits were necessary.
This was a days long event, with precious time on our hands to get the pig broken down and refrigerated, stocks going around the clock, head and feet roasting, Consommes a clearing… it was an adventure to say the least, in home cooking.
The consomme took a good day to make, having to make the stocks, reduce them, then clear them through the raft. In the end, it was worth the time because it yielded a dark, rich, clarified stock that was striking in the terrine. Once the consomme was done, we layered the terrine.
And lo and behold…the Headcheese:
Absolutely decadent. Delicious. I have to say, while I have seen some truly amazing pictures from other bloggers this month, the two day extravaganza that started with an entire pig, and ended in this first bite was a satisfaction and accomplishment like no other. Cheers!
Blended meat and fat, suspended together in tantric harmony. For most people, this cosmic mix should bring us back to a classic childhood memory, decades before I learned what emulsified meat meant. That’s right, you guessed it. None other than the almighty hot dog. Held in the hands of children, hot dogs are remembered by all as a staple at barbeques across the nation. However, if you were raised by a Sicilian step-father that also meant you ate cold cuts like Mortadella. No Oscar Meyer in my fridge, this was the real deal. But, childhood hot dogs taste like crap. And what’s that green stuff in the baloney you’re making me eat? PISTACHIOS? No thanks! I’m a picky kid! So, leaps and bounds more mature than the palate of 7 year old me, bound and determined to up the meat paste’s of my past, I made both. Hot dogs and Mortadella, the July challenge.
It should be said here, in this July and now over half way through this wonderful year of learning Charcuterie and posting about it, that my efforts have not been lonely ones. These successes I have shared with great happiness each month with my dedicated partner in crime, Jake. He totally deserves some face time and recognition for his interest and hard work making all these challenges a reality for us in our home kitchen. Ladies and gents, my partner in crime, my nocturnal assistant, my lovely boyfriend, Jake.
Give credit where credit is due, check. Now back to the assignment. This month, we were to venture into the world of emulsified sausages, making both the hot dogs, and the mortadella.
First the hot dog: Let me tell you, casing emulsified meat is a lot harder than the prior sausages. It’s denser, stickier, full of air pockets that blow out the casings. Frustrating, to say the least. It took a bit of work, but we were able to case the sausages, poach them, and grill them. They made the best hot dogs I’ve ever had. We served them with spicy mustard on huge french rolls, and potato salad studded with pickles, celery seed, mustard seed and coriander. A touch of cayenne and apple cider vinegar rounded it out nicely.
Next up was the mortadella. Now mortadella is like baloney in color, and consistency as well. But it hails from Bologna, and it’s big fat rounds are actually emulsified pork shoulder and fat, studded with tiny diced fat and pistachios. They are stuffed into beef bungs, and believe me, if we could have found them anywhere in the city of Seattle, we would have done just that. However, after many butchers looking at me like I’m crazy, we decided to poach them in plastic.
Mortadella is a lot of work. You have to cut the meat, season it, and grind it. You have to grind the frozen fat as well, and keep them seperate. You have to blanch the fat cubes, as well as the pistachios. Then take the skin off the nuts. While mixing, be very careful to follow the steps and temp your product, so you don’t break your emulsion. Wouldn’t want to get this far only to end up with a break. We did a thorough job of temping and mixing, and came up with a pretty great product.
Mortadella, my step dad would be proud.
This month, the Charcutepalooza challenge was to case sausage. Poultry sausage, to be precise.
Now all you dear readers know I love me some duck, so I figured what better bird to bind than that. Duck sausage, ground with pork fat and cased in flavor. I like the sound of that.
These duck sausages are very special indeed, prepared with love from the Pacific Northwest. And this is a special day, since yesterday I foraged my first morel mushroom! With the excitement of mushroom hunting still fresh in our minds, we utilized some beautiful Chanterelle mushrooms that were stashed in the freezer from the fall (thanks to my partner in crime). The addition of carmelized onions sauteed in Chantrelle butter and fresh Douglas Fir pine needles makes this a duck sausage a thing of beauty.
The meat was ground last night, the mushroom, onion and herb mix rough chopped and folded into the meat mixture. It’s been sitting overnight for the flavors to meld, and tonight, on the 15th of the month (surprise, surprise), we case the sausage, juuust in time for the June deadline.
I can’t wait to try these. Some of my favorite ingredients, made with my favorite man, these sausages truly embody the flavors and energy of the Pacific Northwest.
Merguez or chorizo, merguez or chorizo…hmmm. How ’bout both?
This month, for the May Charcutepalooza challenge, we grind. The wonderful, balanced combination of meat and fat. Merguez, a North African inspired yet French influenced lamb sausage rich with red wine and roasted red peppers. Chorizo, of the Mexican variety and not Spanish, smoky and flavorful with Ancho chiles. With two wonderful things to choose from, we ended up making both. The Merguez was frozen (not before we sampled a bit- wonderful!) and will be cased later.
With the chorizo, we made simple tacos topped with an avocado-tomatillo salsa and home made 7 month old cheddar. A squeeze of lime, the pop of cilantro, these tacos were proof that great food doesn’t have to be complicated. A simple meal of hand made ingredients shared with friends is a great thing.
This month, the Charcutepalooza challenge was hot smoking. A neurotic overachiever through and through, I opted to make the Tasso ham, and to also case and smoke Andouille sausage. 10 pounds of pork shoulder and seasoning, several bottles of wine, many long nights of cooking after 8 hour shifts in a kitchen, a lover as dedicated to food as me, and the sweet, spicy, smoky results are amazing. We smoked them both with hickory chips in a small Weber grill. The Tasso is a bit more cooked than we had hoped, but it still tastes great. The Andouille turned out damn near perfect. I give you Tasso Ham and Andouille sausage, our very own Southern-style goodness in the Pacific Northwest.